Environmental Sciences Research Institute

Beach Morphodynamics

Sandy beach behaviour is driven by numerous environmental variables from wave forcing to sediment type. We investigate beach morphodynamics on a number of spatial and temporal scales using empirical and modelling techniques. Nearshore bar movements, depth of disturbance and swash zone processes are examined along with other phenomena which contribute to beach morphodynamics.

At present we are studying beach morphodynamics at a variety of sites in Europe, Australia, USA and the Caribbean. Collaborating researchers include Andy Short (Australia); Orrin Pilkey (U.S.A); Gonzalo Malvarez (Spain); Fatima Navas (Spain); Luis Gómez-Pujol (Spain); Giorgio Anfuso (Spain); Laura del Rio (Spain).

Contact:

Prof. Derek Jackson; Prof. Andrew Cooper

Publications on morphodynamics:

Short, A.D. and Jackson, D.W.T. (2011) Morphodynamic Systems | Beach Morphodynamics . In: Treatise on Geomorphology: Coastal and Submarine Geomorphology. Elsevier, Amsterdam,

Gómez-Pujol, Luis, Jackson, Derek, Cooper, Andrew, Malvarez, Gonzalo, Navas, Fatima, Loureiro, Carlos and Smyth, Thomas (2011) Spatial and temporal patterns of sediment activation depth on a high-energy microtidal beach. Journal of Coastal Research, SI 64. pp. 85-89.

O’Connor, Marianne, Cooper, Andrew and Jackson, Derek (2011) Decadal behavior of tidal inlet-associated beach systems, Northwest Ireland, in relation to climate forcing. Journal of Sedimentary Research, 81. pp. 38-51.

McKenna, John, Jackson, Derek and Cooper, Andrew (2010) In situ exhumation from bedrock of large rounded boulders at the Giant’s Causeway, Northern Ireland: an alternative genesis for large shore boulders (mega-clasts). Marine Geology, 283, 25-35.

Jackson, Derek and Cooper, Andrew (2009) Application of the equilibrium planform concept to natural beaches in Northern Ireland . Coastal Engineering, 57, 112-123.

Huang, J., Jackson, D.W.T. and Cooper, J.A.G. (2008) Piecewise polynomial expression of beach profiles. Journal of Coastal Research, 26 (5), 851-859.

Cooper, J.A.G., Pilkey, O.H. and Lewis, D.A. (2007) Islands behind islands: An unappreciated coastal landform. Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, 50, 907-911.

Pilkey, O.H. and Cooper, J.A.G. (2007) Lifting the flap or why coastal models don’t work. Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, 50, 585-587.

Lewis, D.A., Cooper, J.A.G. and Pilkey, O.H. 2007. Fetch-limited barrier islands of Spencer Gulf, South Australia. Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, 50, 912-916.

Jackson D.W.T., Anfuso, G. and Lynch, K. (2007). Swash bar dynamics on a high-energy mesotidal beach. Journal of Coastal Research, SI 50, 738 - 745.

Cooper, J.A.G., Pilkey, O.H. Lewis. D. (2006) Fetch-limited barrier islands a new coastal landform category. GSA Today March, 2007, 17 (3), 4-9.

Jackson, D.W.T., Cooper, J.A.G. and Del Rio, L. (2005) Geological control on beach state. Marine Geology, 216 (2005) 297–314.

Malvarez, G.C., Navas, F. and Jackson, D.W.T. (2004) Investigations on the morphodynamics of sandy tidal flats: a modeling application. Coastal Engineering, 51, 731-747.

Malvarez, G.C., Navas F., Alcantara, J. and Jackson D.W.T. (2004). Sandy Tidal Flat Morphodynamics? Examples from Strangford Lough in Northern Ireland. Journal of Coastal Research, SI 41, 160-167.

Cooper, J.A.G. & Pilkey, O.H. (2002) Barrier islands of southern Mozambique. Journal of Coastal Research Special Issue, 36: 164-172.

Jackson, D.W.T. and Malvarez, G.C. (2002) A new, high-resolution ‘depth of disturbance’ instrument (SAM) for use in the surf zone. Journal of Coastal Research SI 36, 406-413.

Navas, F. Malvarez, G.C., Jackson, D.W.T., Cooper, J.A.G. and Portig, A.A., (2002) Geomorphological and Biological Monitoring of Sensitive Intertidal Flat Ecosystems. Journal of Coastal Research SI 36, 531-543.

Huang, J., Jackson, D.W.T. and Cooper, J.A.G. (2002) Morphological monitoring of a high energy beach system using GPS and total station techniques. Journal of Coastal Research SI 36, 390-398.

Knight, J. & Cooper, J.A.G. (2002) Introduction. In: Knight, J. (ed) Field Guide to the Coastal Environments of Northern Ireland. International Coastal Symposium, 2002, University of Ulster, 1-2.

Malvarez, G.C., Cooper, J.A.G. and Jackson, D.W.T. (2001) Relationship between waves and tidal flat sedimentation. Journal of Sedimentary Research, 71 (5), 705-712.

Malvarez, G., Cooper, J.A.G., Jackson, D.W.T., Navas, F. (2001) The role of wave action on sedimentation of tidal flats: application of high spatial resolution numerical modelling in Strangford Lough, Northern Ireland. Journal of Coastal Research, SI 34, 172-182.

Malvarez, G., Cooper, J.A.G., Jackson, D.W.T., Navas, F. (2001) Monitoring of the impact of sea wall reconstruction on the sedimentology and biology on a sensitive intertidal flat ecosystem, Newtownards, Northern Ireland. Journal of Coastal Research, SI 34, 183-190.

Cooper, J.A.G. and Jackson, D.W.T. (2001) Surficial beach structures formed by wave-generated foam. The Journal of Geology, 109, 780-788.

Cooper, J.A.G. (2001) Geomorphology of tide-dominated and river-dominated, barred microtidal estuaries: a contrast. Journal of Coastal Research , SI 34, 428-436.

Cooper, J.A.G. and Jackson, D.W.T. (1999) Wave spray deposits and processes during a coastal storm. Marine Geology,161, 377-383.

Jackson, D.W.T. and Cooper, J.A.G. (1999) Formation of ephemeral bedform turrets in coastal foredunes. The Journal of Geology, 107, 633 639.