Environmental Sciences Research Institute

Morphological signature of the March 2008 swell event on Caribbean beaches

This NERC-funded project is examining the geomorphic impact of a large swell event on


A swell-formed scarp in a coarse clastic (coral rubble) beach on Beef Island, BVI

beaches of the British Virgin Islands where modal wave energy is low. Morphological response of various types of beach (fine terrigenous sand, carbonate sand and coarse clastic sediments) at different levels of exposure to the swell waves were measured and are being analysed in conjunction with measured wave conditions whose dynamics at various beaches have been modelled.

The project’s findings will provide an assessment of the relative geomorphic importance of swell waves compared to other high energy events (hurricanes and tsunami).

Principle Investigator: Prof. Andrew Cooper

Co-investigator: Prof. Derek Jackson